Elapsing into pale blue silk, the sun drizzled drops of its rays, and they spread out in incredible stains. The wind subsided, round boat, as brown as a basket, lay on the sand, the flowers of trees from the hill smelled. Their scent always held back till the evening and only at dusk emerged on its short intoxicated promenade.
The tide began to calm down. Rolling smoother waves, reflecting sloping long rays, making the water gleaming. Finally, the surf became so calm that some waves managed to carry the foam mane on the top without losing it all the way to the shore. We wanted to be among them. We did not talk. We walked along the embankment, and the giant was silent beside us. Dark and cold. Only sometimes its broad round like a stingray wing slightly moved, and then the sand rustled, and the grains of our souls rose and fell with it. Or our souls were these drops, and we stirred in our inner oceans pebbles of possibilities and sand of junctures.
As soon as we enter the water with the board, under the endless desperately blue flowing sky, we have surfing and experience the range of sensations that can gift only the ocean and dynamic colloquy with it. Now it flows in our blood vessels, flows through our hearts. To the blood density of red it mixes the blue, and our thoughts no longer tolerate a conditional, trivial framework.
When I got up on my first wave and felt that was flying over the water, over a vast ocean, that it allowed me this glissade after a long struggle, it was a minuscule moment of light-heartedness. The euphoria that I live. In a mundane life, there are too many routine thoughts, vain emotions and low noise hindrances. When I get up on the board, I do not think about anything. Switching off inner dialogue. Only I feel myself “as I am”. Only I and the ocean. Inside you, Freedom pulsates, you are absolutely Free.
Free to choose a new dream or, without looking back, to strive to achieve the already existing one. It’s a blessing to learn to live without going away in your dreams any further than tomorrow. It is wise to live in the process, not the outcome.
Seizing the moment. The rhythm of the waves is becoming the markers of time. Dreaming with my eyes wide open, riding the waves of my life. A mixture of philosophy and meditation, despite the dynamics of movement – to catch the wave, to stand quickly and firmly, but without fuss and with relaxed concentration. This unity with the ocean, when thoughts and habitual perception of the world go far away, nothing matters and everything is important at the same time, overcoming your abilities and dissolving the fears, one by one.